Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Corset making 101: Inserting the busk 1

Note: this is an optional step. a busk is not essential to a corset.

Now that we've got our pattern pieces cut out and prepared, we can start assembling the corset.
Always start making the closures first. in this case we will start with the front busk closure, which is probably one of the trickiest things to sew when making a corset.

First let's take a look at the pieces we'll be working with.

All four fabric pieces of the front of the corset, and the busk itself.

Traditionally the busk hooks go on the left side of the corset, however there is no reason why you shouldn't switch this around if you want to.

The busk will be placed inside the two corset layers. however the hooks will have to stick out of the side seam. To do this take the left pattern pieces (outer layer and lining) and pin them with the right sides onto eachother.
Now with a crayon or marker mark the place where the hooks will be placed

Sew the two pattern pieces together, but dont sew where the hooks are supposed to come.

The right side of the busk does not have hooks portruding out of the seam. you can easily sew those pattern pieces together in one continues seam.

Now press all seams flat on both sides . startin with the inside.

After it is flat, you can fold it over and press it (pressing it flat first creates a nicer result.)
make sure not to press it exactly on the fold, but turn a milimeter of the outer layer to the inside.
(see picture below) this makes sure none of the lining will show when wearing the corset.

Next: notice how you can clearly see the bulge of the seam allowance on the next picture,

This is not nice and therefor we will need to trim the seam allowance,
Now cut of a sliver of fabric (5mm) of one of the pieces of seam allowance) usually the lining piece. (the widest piece of seam allowance needs to lie over the thinnest.)
look at the following pictures to make it more clear, and notice the reduced bulge in the final picture.

Now that you've pressed and thinned out both pieces insert the left busk piece and lay next to eachother.

Let's continue...


  1. Wonderful. I've always wondered what the heck a busk stick or closure looked like and how to sew them.

  2. your blog was very helpful in a recent corset project! thanks and keep posting!

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