Saturday, July 25, 2009

Assembling the corset 2

Okay now, it's time to fix the outer layer and lining layer together,
But before we do this. it might be best to try on the corset to check how it is going to fit.
since this is the last time you'll be able to make any alterations.

This step in making the corset will consist of hand sewing and is a time consuming step.
however I do recommend it, since it makes the difference between a poor and a superb corset.

take a needle and some thread in a contrasting color and hand stitch the seams of the outside to the corresponding seams of the lining. (see the picture below)


Okay once you've done this step, it's time to sew them together by machine.
There are a couple of options here, which you can use to your own discretion. The decision you'll have to make is where the bones will be placed allong the seams. would you like to have the bone to the left, right or centered under the seam. once you've decided this, you can start sewing. I've decided to make a mix of left and right of the seam, but none of my bones will be placed directly under the seam.

So in the following pictures i'm sewing a line 2mm (1/8 inch) to the side of my seams

Once you've done all this you can remove the hand sewn thread (or you can do this at a later state, but it has lost it's function now.

Now it's time to sew the first boning channel. sew the channel a slightly bit wider then the bone, but not to wide, it should be nice and snug, which will look nicer and it will make your corset less succeptable to wear and tear.
You can use a piece of boning to check the width of the channel, but do not insert it yet, that would make the corset harder to sew. insert the bones only after you've finshed with all the boning channels.


you'll end up with something like the picture below.


That was the easy part, now we'll put in some boning channels that won't run next to a seam line.
this is one of the hardest steps to do, since it is extremely difficult to get it just right.

First decide where you'll want your bones to be placed.
Once you've decided, take out your needle and thread again and baste down a line on the exact spot where you'll want the boning channel to run.
like the picture below.

And use that line as a gauge to sew the boning channel.
And you'll end up with something like..


That's starting to look okay, however i don't like those big empty spaces next to the centre front.
I think I'll put in an exta set of boning channels in to even it out..

And now I have..


Now it is finally time to insert all the boning. and take extra good care of capping your spiral bones, use two pairs of pliers to attach them securely.

After you've boned the whole corset, put it on a doll so you can admire your handywork.


Let's continue...

2 comments:

  1. So you will spiral bone the boning channels that are not the main ones?

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